LOS ANGELES’ BEST NEW RESTAURANTS – LA MAG
FROM LOS ANGELES MAGAZINE:
Walter and Margarita Manzke’s charming follow-up to République pairs silky duck-liver mousse with a perfect baguette that’s chewy, crusty, and ultimately yielding. This is a bistro that’s happy to shut up and play the Parisian hits, so order a textbook version of onion soup with oozy cheese before indulging in the hearty short rib bourguignon or a luxurious bouillabaisse with rock cod, mussels, clams, and prawns (below). Of course, potato mousseline is on the menu and, of course, they’re made with wonderful Normandy butter. (You can also have Normandy butter with a baguette, of course.) Chocolate sauce is poured over profiteroles tableside, making for a sweet moment that’s great for a date night and/or Instagram. Showy moments aside, the dessert is truly transporting. The sauce is warm, the ice cream is still cold, and the exemplary pate a choux holds everything together. Bicyclette’s staff, including chef Joe Garcia and wunderkind wine expert Andrey Tolmachyov, is knowledgeable and accommodating, even if you don’t have a reservation. The dimly lit room feels sexy and correct, and walk-ins who are lucky enough to snag a bar seat are right next to all the action in the gleaming kitchen, where a tray of those baguettes sits majestically on the counter. You’re not in Paris, but it’s pretty close.