FROM THE INFATUATION:

When this cozy, subterranean French bistro opened in Beverlywood back in June, it felt as if the entire universe was trying to woo us. The weather was warm, Olivia Rodrigo dropped a break-up album, and at Bicyclette, we were served a potato mousseline so silky, we could have worn it like a Reformation dress. Run by the LA power duo behind Republique, Bicyclette specializes in French home-style cooking. You’ll find heavy dishes, like beef short rib a la bourguignonne and caramelized onion tarts—in essence, everything that tastes like it was designed to be eaten in the early 1700s by candlelight on the European countryside. No meal is complete without the escargot en croute, a wonderful snail dish served in white-hot ceramic shot glasses that is half-spectacle, half-spiritual cleansing bath. Do we always crave French food that tastes like it was surgically injected with butter by Julia Child herself? Not really. But when we do, we’ll head to Bicyclette.